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Nothing goes on the slab until the slab is ready, and getting it ready is most of the job. Any oil that has soaked in has to be drawn back out first, since neither epoxy nor polyaspartic will bond through it and the patch that lets go will be exactly where the car stood. The old finish, whether coating, sealer or paint, is ground away until raw concrete shows edge to edge. Cracks and broken corners are opened up, filled with a resin mortar and leveled back into the surface, while saw-cut joints are carried through the new floor rather than filled, because a crack blocked in one place simply reappears in the next.
With the concrete open, a pigmented base coat is driven into it, epoxy or polyaspartic according to how soon the garage has to take a car again. Flake or pigment is broadcast while that coat is still wet, so the finish ends up inside the resin and not stuck to the face of it. Last comes a clear polyaspartic seal, and from that point it is the seal taking the wear and not the color beneath it. The same sequence runs in every garage we coat. Most are done inside a working day, the slab carries feet that evening and a car a good deal later, and a polyaspartic build cuts that wait down without removing it.
What sits under the finish and what goes over it are the same in every garage. The middle pass is the one you actually decide on, and it is the one you will be looking at for years. Three of them cover nearly everything we lay, and the blends are far easier to judge in front of you than in a paragraph.
Chips are scattered into the wet epoxy base coat and locked in under polyaspartic, which leaves a surface with some texture and some grip to it. It is where most Thousand Oaks garages end up, because a broken-up pattern hides tire marks, dust and the odd dropped socket instead of framing them. It is also the kindest of the three to concrete that has been repaired, since the blend reads as pattern and the patch underneath stops being the thing you look at.
A solid color epoxy reads cleanest of the three and asks the most of the concrete under it, because there is no pattern to disguise a repair or a ripple. Mid grays and mid tans are where most people settle, since they fall between showing every mark and showing none at all. In a garage that doubles as a workshop or a gym it comes across as a finished room rather than a working bay.
Pigment held inside the resin is worked as it cures, so the pattern is made on the day and no two garages finish the same. That is the whole draw of it and equally the caution, because nobody can hand you an exact preview of what yours will do. It suits a garage that gets looked at rather than one holding two cars and a mower. The rooms on the other side of that wall are coated the same three passes deep, and what changes there is the wear they take.
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Three questions decide a garage figure and not one of them is answered in an office. The first comes off the tape measure and the concrete, the second off the build you settle on, and the third is whether a coating is even the right thing to be quoting.
Square footage sets the base of the figure and the state of the concrete sets everything above it. A slab that has carried one covering and is otherwise sound comes up quickly and takes very little filling. One that has been through tile, then carpet, then somebody's coat of garage paint can absorb most of a day before any epoxy is opened. Where a floor has genuinely dropped rather than merely worn, bringing the low side back up is separate work, and pricing it as a coating is how a quote goes wrong.
An epoxy base under a polyaspartic seal is the standard build and the cheapest route to a finished garage. Running polyaspartic the whole way through costs more and buys back time, because the garage comes back into use much sooner and the color holds where epoxy slowly ambers. Metallic epoxy sits at the top of the range, since laying it is slower and the pattern cannot be rushed. In a garage in daily use the time saved is often worth more than the look.
Three situations come up often enough to be worth naming. Concrete that is flat, sound and already clean can be polished on its own account, which costs less than coating it and cannot chip, because nothing has been added that could. A slab pushing moisture up from underneath needs that dealt with first or the coating will let go, whatever material it is. And a bay standing open to direct sun most of the day wants a polyaspartic build rather than an indoor epoxy one.
Answer those three and the figure follows. Most garage floors in Thousand Oaks come in between $5 and $7 per square foot, and a standard two-car bay is one day on site. We hold a 5.0 rating from 120+ reviews and are usually a couple of weeks out. Tell us the size of the garage, send a photo of the floor as it is today, or call (818) 359-3932, and you will get a real number back rather than a range.
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