Garage Flooring in Flintridge, CA

Nothing we lay is stronger than the slab holding it up, so the first machine through the door is a grinder. It cuts the bay down to clean concrete and takes off everything that has accumulated on top: garage paint, a store-bought kit that has begun to lift, curing compound left over from the pour, and the oil that works its way in under a car that always parks in the same spot. Grinding earns its place a second way. A poured floor is closed up smooth by a power trowel, and epoxy has nothing to grip until that face has been opened again.

Whatever the bare concrete turns out to be hiding is dealt with next, and all of it happens before a tin is opened. Cracks are cut out, filled and brought flush with the slab so the finished surface reads unbroken across them. Control joints get followed through the coating instead of being bridged, because a slab denied its movement will find a worse place to move. Damp readings are taken, and where the concrete is pushing moisture upward a barrier goes down before any epoxy does. A rough slab is not a reason for us to turn a garage away. It is part of the figure we quote you.

The floor itself is built in three passes: a pigmented epoxy base, flake or color broadcast into it before it goes off, and a clear polyaspartic seal over everything. Allow six to nine hours on a two-car bay, so the car is displaced for one day and not a fortnight. One two-car garage we finished in La Cañada arrived as bare concrete with oil worked deep into it, and left with Outback flake over a polyaspartic base under a gloss seal, eight hours from start to finish. Where a slab has actually sunk rather than merely worn thin, it wants leveling before any coating is worth paying for, and if you would rather look at the concrete than cover it we can polish it instead.

Almost every bay we quote settles on one of three epoxy finishes, and what really separates them is how much wear you want the floor to keep out of sight. Every blend we install has a physical swatch, and setting one down on your own concrete answers the question faster than any amount of scrolling.

Epoxy Flake Garage Floors

Flake is where most garages in this city finish up. Vinyl chips are cast into the live base coat until no concrete shows through, and the clear polyaspartic over the top holds them there permanently. The chips leave a slight tooth underfoot, which counts on a floor that gets wet when a car pulls in out of the rain, and the busy pattern quietly swallows the scuffs and dust a working garage produces. Three of the four garages we have coated in La Cañada were finished in flake, in the Outback and Gravel blends.

Solid Color Epoxy Garage Floors

Solid color drops the chips altogether: a tinted epoxy under the same clear seal, running one tone from wall to wall. It is the most finished-looking of the three. Nothing in the surface breaks a mark up, though, so dust and tire rubber show sooner, and it asks for concrete that came up clean under the grinder. Medium grays and warm neutrals are what most people settle on. Where the garage doubles as a gym or an office, one continuous color is what stops the space reading like a garage.

Metallic Epoxy Garage Floors

Metallic epoxy works differently again. The pigment travels inside the resin and is moved around while it cures, so the pattern that comes out belongs to that floor and to no other. That is the appeal and it is also the honest catch, because yours does not exist until it is down. Keep it for a bay you spend time in rather than one that takes two cars every night, and bear in mind that damage is harder to disguise in it than in the other two.

Two things carry most of a quote. The state of the concrete is one, since a sound slab wants grinding and nothing further, while a broken one wants cutting out, filling and grinding a second time before any epoxy base coat can be justified. Floor area is the other, and the bays we measure around here run from about 450 up to 700 square feet. On a Flintridge garage, reckon on $5 to $7 per square foot, with a two-car bay filling the working day.

The finish you choose moves it as well. Metallic takes us longest to lay, flake comes next, and solid color is the quickest of them. The resin counts too. Polyaspartic goes hard in hours rather than over several days, and that is the whole reason your bay comes back to you the same evening instead of at the end of the week. It also keeps its color under light, where an epoxy topcoat ambers with age. Every number we give is read off your slab, never off a rate card.

Our rating stands at 5.0 from 120+ reviews, and the book is normally a couple of weeks deep. Get us the dimensions of the bay and a photo showing the floor in its current state, or ring (818) 359-3932, and we will put a proper epoxy or polyaspartic price against your own garage rather than a national average.