Garage Flooring in Burbank, CA

On concrete this old the preparation is not a formality, and it is where most of the day goes. Oil that has soaked in over decades gets pulled back out before anything else, because no coating grips through it, epoxy or polyaspartic, and the first patch to let go is always the one the car parked on. Whatever else is on the surface, a sealer, a coat of porch paint, the remains of somebody's roll-on kit, comes off under a diamond grinder until bare concrete shows across the whole floor. Cracks and spalled corners are cut open, packed with a mortar and brought back flush. Saw-cut joints are carried up through the finished floor instead of being filled, because a crack sealed shut at one point simply reappears a few feet along. Slabs poured before vapor barriers were routine can also push damp from underneath, and where that shows on the meter an epoxy moisture barrier goes down over the bare concrete first.

Once the slab is open, the floor over it is three coats. A pigmented base is worked into the concrete, either epoxy or polyaspartic, and which one depends on how soon the bay has to hold a car again. Flake or pigment goes in while that base is still open, which beds the finish down into the epoxy rather than leaving it stranded on the surface. A clear polyaspartic seal goes over everything, and it is that seal doing the wearing from there on, not the color beneath it. That build does not change from one garage to the next. A two-car bay is usually a single day on site, and one Burbank garage was finished in seven hours, a midnight flake floor with polyaspartic top and bottom. The concrete takes feet that evening and a vehicle a good deal later, and a polyaspartic build shortens that wait rather than abolishing it.

The base underneath and the seal on top are fixed. What you are actually picking is the coat between them, and it is the one that decides what the floor looks like for the next decade. Three finishes account for nearly everything we put down here, and colors and chip blends make a great deal more sense held against the concrete than read off a list.

Flake, and Why Most Burbank Garages Land There

Chips go down into the wet epoxy base and are locked under polyaspartic, which leaves a floor with some texture underfoot and real grip when it is wet. Most garages here end up on flake, and on an older slab the reason is plain enough: a patched, previously cracked floor disappears under a busy blend in a way it never does under a flat color. It is also the finish that copes best with a bay doing three jobs at once, because dust, tire marks and a dropped wrench all stop being events.

Solid Color Epoxy on a Slab in Good Order

Solid color epoxy is the cleanest of the three to look at and the most demanding of what lies under it, since there is no pattern to carry a repair or a low spot. Mid grays and warm tans are where most people settle, far enough from white to live with and far enough from black to see by. In a Burbank garage that has quietly turned into an office, a rehearsal room or a shop, it reads as a finished floor rather than a coated one.

Metallic Epoxy Where the Garage Is on Show

Metallic pigment is moved about inside the epoxy while it cures, so the pattern is made on the day and nothing else will look quite like it. That is the appeal and equally the warning, because nobody can show you in advance exactly what yours will do. It belongs in a garage that gets opened up and shown rather than one holding two cars and the recycling. Inside the house the build is identical and the demands are not.

Nobody can price a garage floor down the phone with any honesty. Three things set the figure: how much floor there is and what condition it is in, which build goes over it, and whether a coating is the right answer for that slab at all.

The Size of the Bay and the State of the Concrete

Square footage gives the opening figure and the concrete decides everything after it. A slab that has carried one coating and is otherwise sound grinds up fast and needs very little filling. One that has been through paint, then a sealer, then a kit somebody rolled on themselves can swallow most of a day before a drop of epoxy is opened, and older Burbank floors have generally had more done to them than newer ones. Where a floor has actually dropped rather than simply worn, getting it back to level is its own job, and quoting that as a coating is how an estimate goes badly wrong.

Which Build Goes Down

Epoxy underneath a polyaspartic seal is the standard specification and the cheapest route to a finished garage. Running polyaspartic through both coats costs more and buys back time, because the bay comes back into service far sooner and the color stays where it started instead of ambering the way epoxy slowly does. Metallic epoxy sits at the top of the range, since it is laid slowly and the pattern cannot be hurried. In a garage that is in use every day, the days saved are frequently worth more than the difference in finish.

When We Would Tell You Not To

Three situations come up often enough to be worth saying out loud. Concrete that is flat, sound and already clean is a candidate for polishing instead, which costs less than coating it and has nothing on top to chip off. A slab driving moisture upward has to be resolved before anything is laid over it, or the floor will release and the material will get the blame for it. And a bay standing open to full sun most of the afternoon wants a polyaspartic build rather than an interior grade epoxy one.

With those three answered the number stops being a guess. A Burbank garage floor in epoxy typically works out at $5 to $7 per square foot, and a two-car bay is one day's work. Our rating is 5.0 across 120+ reviews and we are usually booking a couple of weeks ahead. Measure the garage, photograph the floor as it looks right now and send both through, or call (818) 359-3932, and we will come back with an actual figure.